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diff --git a/_drafts/mr-worldwide-pt-1-europe.md b/_drafts/mr-worldwide-pt-1-europe.md deleted file mode 100644 index b830dde..0000000 --- a/_drafts/mr-worldwide-pt-1-europe.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,432 +0,0 @@ ---- -title: >- - Mr. Worldwide, Pt. 1: Europe -description: >- - Or: How I stopped worrying and learned to love tomatoes. ---- - -## TODO - -## Outline - -- The Second Leg - - Munich - - No more pictures, no more tourism - - Diet - - Belgium - - Brussels - - Communism and french fries - - Comic book museum - - Drawing - - Bruges - - Beer - - A fucking expensive fairytale - - So cold, so scarfed - - Camina Del Santiago - - UK - - London - - Cost of museums, theft of culture - - Dublin - - Housing problems - - Glendalough - - Edinburgh - - Reading/Writing - - Harry Fucking Potter - - Amsterdam - - Pub crawl (partying vs ...) - - Van Gogh - - Weed - - Sex (museum) - - Copenhagen - - Freedom (Christiania) - - So many chairs - - Stockholm - - Tradition - - Berlin - - History - - Movie - - Prague - - Wandering - - Planning -- The Third Leg - - Munich - - Alps, Olympics - - Passport - - Venice - - Beauty in spite of tourism - - Rijeka - - Hitchikers - - A strange beauty - - Vienna - - Riches and empire - - A day at the palace - - The Couchsurfing Cult - - Athens - - Culture - - History - -## Munich, Germany - -On Febrary 14th I returned to Munich. Having been on the road for a little over -3 weeks, I was utterly exhausted, and neglected to take any pictures at all. In -fact, I hardly remember _what_ I did there, except go to the library a lot. -Munich has a fantastic public library, which I spent a considerable amount of -time at every time I was in town. I'd create my rough plans of where to go next -there, as well as do miscellaneous coding and writing. I was through being a -tourist. - -After Rome I had begun really putting my strategy of "wander around and see what -calls out to me" to the test. By the time I was in Munich it had really sunk in, -and the only thing which really called to me in Munich was the peace and quiet -of the library during the day, and hanging out with Caitlin and her friends at -night. For the rest of the trip I wouldn't take so many pictures as I had been -doing, and wouldn't go way out of my way to see something which didn't truly -interest me. - -After I left Italy I had begun eating differently too. Italy is, obviously, -known for two foods: pasta and pizza, and I had a lot of those while I was -there. At one point I had the awkward experience of an Italian guy asking me if -Italy had better pizza than the U.S., and me having to try and find a way to -both be honest and not seem like too much of a dick when I told him: "no". It -would be fair to say that, in Italy, your money goes a lot farther in terms of -quality than in the U.S.; or, in other words, their average quality is higher. -But it's not like Italians know some secret the rest of the world doesn't, and -you can easily find a good, crispy, thin crust, wood fired pizza anywhere, if -you look for it. - -That was the real lesson for me: it's not that Europe has _better_ food across -the board than the U.S., it's that even their cheapest restaurants will be -pretty high quality, whereas finding good but cheap food in the U.S. can often -be quite difficult. So someone like me, who's on a spend-as-little-as-possible -budget, can still enjoy pretty good food anywhere. - -All the same, I would largely stop going out to eat at all from this point in -the trip onward, and instead I began visiting grocery stores frequently. During -the day I'd always have in my bag: a bottle of water, a loaf of bread, a block -of cheese (usually gouda), almonds, and dates or dried figs. These I would munch -on throughout the day, and for dinner I'd make something simple like pasta or -rice with veggies and tofu. Having a kitchen would become a requirement for me -to stay at a hostel, and many hostels have a "free stuff" section filled with -food items people had left behind, like garlic or salt or whatever, so I often -didn't need to go shopping at all. - -Of course, I didn't abstain from eating out _completely_. Every country has some -claim-to-fame food item, which I'd try once or twice while there, if it didn't -mean going way out of my way. But food wasn't a primary concern of my trip, and -so I tried my best to spend as little as possible on it. - -Having spent a few days in Munich, recuperating and figuring out my next steps, -I continued on... to Brussels! - -## Brussels, Belgium - -The bus arrived in Brussels super late at night, and I woke up to the voice of -the bus driver over the intercom: "Welcome to Brussels! Donald Trump says it is -the shithole of Europe, and he has it right!" So it was a warm welcome. I only -stayed in Brussels for two nights; it was more of a pit-stop on the way to -Bruges than anything. My hostel was, apparently, on the site of one of Van -Gogh's old studios, but that fact was played up in favor of actually making the -hostel any good. But the city was nice enough, and despite the bitter cold I -enjoyed myself. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="brussels-2018.jpg" width=556 - descr="Comic murals like this can be find all over the city. Brussels, 2018" - float="right" - %} - -Besides being the capital of the E.U., Brussels is also famous for its history -of comics. Not just superhero comics, but also political, children's, humor, and -historical comics too. While wandering around I visited a number of comic stores -with huge selections, almost entirely in not-English (Belgium has three -official languages), and there were huge comic murals all over the city. -Brussels' comic history would also provide me with my favorite museum experience -of the entire trip. - -The majority of museums I went to in Europe were only loosely ordered. Large -collection museums would organize be era, and maybe by year within the era, or -perhaps by artist. Those museums are fine for wandering around, but the really -good museums are those that tell a story. The Escher exhibit in Lisbon, the -Picasso exhibit I went to in Barcelona, and the Van Gogh museum in Amsterdam -tell the story of a single person's life, and by having that focus can be really -compelling for the visitor. Those with a more broad focus have more difficulty -being as compelling, but the Belgian Comic Strip Center nailed it. - -The museum started with a walkthrough of how comics are actually made, from -initial blocking, to pencil sketches, to coloring, and finally inking. It -covered materials used in past and present, and how digital tools like -Photoshop and 3D modeling, which allow the entire process to be done digitally -and quickly, have changed the landscape. - -From there the museum opened up into different sections, some focusing on -specific countries, others on a particular artist, others on a theme. Each had -a series of wall texts guiding you through the section, not just by giving -information on a specific piece, but giving overall information on context. -There were sections on specific Belgian artists, famous comic characters, a -whole section on comics in propaganda, chinese and japanese comics (_not_ -manga), and much more. There were sections on the different mediums that comics -appeared, e.g. newspapers, comic books, and posters, and even a whole section on -the Smurfs. Overall it was one of the most thought out, well designed museums -I've ever been to, and it made the trip to Brussels worth it on its own. - -After the Comic Center I didn't have much else I wanted to do. I wandered -through the tourist-y area, saw the statue of the peeing kid that's apparently -famous, and ended up walking a long while to visit what is, according to _the -internet_, the best belgian fries joint in the city. It was pretty good (though -the best belgian fries I'd have would turn out to be in Amsterdam), and I sat -down in a little plaza to eat them. While there I caught the eye, for better or -worse, of a guy coming out of a bar, and he immediately bee-lined for me. His -English was not solid, but that didn't slow him down in the least. - -He opened by telling me he was waiting for his taxi, and then immediately -launched into a tirade against capitalism, in favor of communism. I told him I'm -from the U.S. and we (mostly he) talked about consumer culture, the plight of -the working man, and the like. After a few minutes his taxi showed up, he wished -me a good trip, and we said goodbye. It was a fun but extremely odd interaction. -"Are all Belgians so eager to espouse communism to random passerby?", I'd wonder -to myself. - -After wandering a while longer I decided to just catch a bus back to my hostel. -A woman walked by with her two kids while I was waiting at the stop, and turned -back to tell me something, though she didn't have hardly any English to work -with. After some struggle we managed to land on "no bus". Damn. So I walked down -to the metro station to take the train instead. While waiting for the train I -overheard on the intercom: "Train delay due to worker strike". Which explained -everything instantly. The Brussels public transit workers were on strike, so -there was no bus, and no train, and a man (I'm betting one of the workers) was -drinking in the middle of the day, waiting for a taxi, and super primed to talk -about worker's rights. - -While it was a funny situation, in a way, it did make my life quite a bit -harder. Once I finally got back to the hostel I stayed in for the night, and the -next day headed on to Bruges. - -## Bruges, Belgium - -I'll be honest and say that 90% of the reason I wanted to go to Bruges was -because of the movie, _In Bruges_, which is one of my all time favorites. The -movie was shot almost completely in the city, and makes a lot of fun out of -tourists coming to see it. "It's a fucking fairytale" is a common refrain in it. -Bruges always had a pretty solid tourist game, but after the movie it really -took off, so that most of the other people in my hostel said they had only -really heard of the city from the movie too. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="bruges-pano-2018.jpg" width=1492 - descr="View from atop the the Belfry of Bruges, 2018" - %} - -The city itself is actually beautiful. Once out of the busy tourist area, -centered around the Belfry, the streets and canals wind around through quiet -neighborhoods and small parks. Bruges is sometimes called the Venice of the -North (though Amsterdam also calls itself this), due to its history as an -important historical commercial port built on top of a maze of canals. There are -many canal boat tours available, but I was too ~~cheap~~ poor to spring for one, -so I took a free walking tour instead. - -"Free" walking tours are a fairly common business in European cities. The tour -guides collect people from various hostels they have arrangements with, and walk -them around the city, talking about whatever is worth talking about. Most that I -took were quite good, weaving together the history of a place, its culture both -then and now, and current events, all while giving you a good lay-of-the-land -and two-ish hours of being out-and-about. At the end of the tour the guides ask -for tips/donations, and most people give between $5-20. - -On the tour of Bruges our guide had pointed out a sea shell cemented into the -pavement. This was part, he said, of the Camino De Santiago. In the middle ages -the Catholic Church considered pilgrimage to be a suitable form of atonement for -sins/crimes, and so many people throughout Europe were sent away from their -towns to travel by land to the Santiago de Compestela Cathedral in northern -Spain. Over time the various routes materialized into a network, denoted by sea -shells or sea shell symbols, which stretches throughout Europe and which people -continue to use today. - -Even as the guide was telling us about it I knew I wanted to do. As the trip -wore on I talked to a few people who had done the pilgrimage, and for every one -I became more and more convinced that I must do it. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="bruges-canal-2018.jpg" width=1920 - descr="Canals of Bruges, 2018" - %} - -I made a few friends in my hostel, our friendship having been forged in the -struggle of trying to find an affordable meal in Bruges. Every restaurant in -Bruges, it seemed, did "full" meals, where you pay a fixed amount and get two, -three, or four courses. But the fixed amount was never lower than €45, and so we -spent a lot of time searching for alternatives. After a lot of searching we -found a couple places which were reasonably priced for the couple nights we were -all there, and one of the group knew of a hard-to-find pub which made and sold -13% alcohol beer for a few euro. After all that Bruges wasn't as unaffordable -as it first seemed, and was a lot of fun, but it took a bit of work to make it -so. - -After Bruges I took a bus back to Brussels, where I hung out for a while waiting -for my next bus which would take me across the pond. - -## London, England - -Getting to London was honestly one of the most exciting parts of that trip. The -Channel Tunnel, or "Chunnel", runs from France, underneath the English Channel, -and pops back up in England. In the tunnel is a giant train which ferries cars -and buses through the tunnel. Taking the Chunnel was as easy as buying a bus -ticket from Brussels to London, and passing through three passport checks along -the way (the UK check being the most intense passport check of my entire -journey, for whatever reason). - -While the London Underground (The Tube, as the British call it, in their very -endearing habit of giving everything an endearing nickname) was easy enough to -use, though _very_ expensive, so I spent a lot of time walking in the bitter -cold. London is a _huge_ metropolitan city, filled to the brim with shops and -restaurants and plenty of other attractions to grab tourists. But despite their -best efforts, none were more grabbing to me than the museums. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="london-steg-2018.jpg" width=1920 - descr="Stegosaurus at the Natural History Museum. London, 2018" - %} - -All the major museums in London are free to enter. This includes the National -Gallery, exhibiting paintings and art from the world over, the Natural History -Museum (my favorite), with its seemingly infinite halls of fossils and stones -and pre-historic artifacts, and the British Museum, which exhibits many of the -archeological treasures the British have stolen from other cultures throughout -history. - -There's a significant amount of controversy surrounding the British Museum, and -whether or not it's right for it to keep artifacts like the Rosetta Stone, and -sculptures from the Parthenon of Athens. The argument is that the British were -not really _given_ these artifacts by the peoples/cultures which originated -them, and so the museum is effectively parading stolen property. - -The British Museum argues that, in fact, it's encouraging the spread of culture -and understanding by collecting these artifacts from around the world and -displaying them in context to each other, and that its mission is charitable to -the cultures from which the artifacts are taken. And additionally that: "[the] -restitutionist premise, that whatever was made in a country must return to an -original geographical site, would empty both the British Museum and the other -great museums of the world". - -The argument that they're actually spreading culture is pretty patronizing, as -if the people they've stolen from don't know how to do this best for themselves, -and as if they should obviously _want_ this to be done for them. As for the -argument that restitutionism would empty the museum, I can only imagine a -restitutionist responding: "Yes, that's the point". It's one thing for a museum -to be given or loaned an item for display by another people, but quite another -to assume the right to take an item regardless of its peoples' wishes. - -Besides some very good fish and chips, London didn't have all that much else for -me. The museums were insanely crowded, with everyone pushing over themselves to -fill out their selfie-with-famous-objects-bingo-cards; my hostel was weird (all -of my hostels in the UK were weird, in fact; more on that in Ireland); and -everything was quite expensive. I wasn't too sad to leave. - -## Dublin, Ireland - -My bus dropped me off at a small ferry terminal in Holyhead, a town in Wales. -From there I took the couple-hour ferry ride to Dublin. - -I spent only a couple of days in Dublin, but one of those days I struggled to be -a living human while fighting off the flu. I still managed to walk down to -Trinity College to see The Book of Kells and the college library's Long Room, -but the memory of it is fuzzy. I'm sure I looked as dead as the people who wrote -those books. - -That day I mostly hung out at the hostel. Hostels in the UK have a very -different atmosphere than everywhere else; there's a fairly bad housing crisis -occurring in most major cities (like the three I went to), and often it's -cheaper to live in a hostel than to rent an apartment. So the hostels I stayed -in were filled with people who'd been there for months, some of them working, -others trying to find work, others just lounging. But the dichotomy between -people who were just passing through and people who were there long term made it -a less than stellar experience. The long-term residents all knew each other and -formed cliques, and generally took up the common spaces, so if you weren't -already traveling with others (like me) it was pretty easy to feel excluded. - -On the second day I decided to go on a day trip out of Dublin. The city was -neat, but I wasn't finding all that much I wanted to do inside of it. I found a -bus company which did day trips to Glendalough, a valley which holds -the ruins of a 6th century monastary, a beautiful lake, many hiking trails, and -some sheep. I spent the day hiking, wandering around the ruins, and escaping an -incoming snow storm. By the end of it all my sickness from the previous day was -completely gone, and I slept the whole bus ride back. - -## Edinburgh, Scotland - -I left Dublin just as the Beast from the East made landfall. A giant cold wave -brought in tons of snow and unseasonably low temperatures, stretching all across -Europe. My plane must have been one of the last ones to land in Edinburgh, -because for the next 2 days the entire city was completely snowed in, and most -stores and attractions were closed. - -The tourist industry heavily plays up that Edinburgh is the city where JK -Rowling wrote most of the _Harry Potter_ books, and you can see its influence -clearly. The towering gothic cathedrals, castles on cliffs, old graveyards, -dense cobblestone streets and dark alleys all feel like something right out of -the books (though really it's the other way around). There was a cafe only a few -blocks away from my hostel where JK Rowling apparently first started writing the -books, a piece of trivia which the cafe has not failed to cash in on. - -The city was quite peaceful, probably because everything was closed from the -storm, but it felt like it might always be like that even in good weather. Most -days I'd find a spot to hunker down and draw for a while, then in the afternoon -go explore some sight or another; the castle, the royal mile, Calton Hill... Or -I'd go in search of decent groceries, which were strangely difficult to find. -The city is (said to be) built on seven hills, like Rome, and between the many -steep stairways and narrow alleys navigating them, and packed snow and ice, it -was quite difficult to explore too far. - -While I spent five whole days in Edinburgh, I don't have much to talk about for -it. It's probably one of the most unique cities I visited, with a lot of beauty -and history and things to see, and I absolutely would love to go back. But -despite all that, there was definitely a feeling a depression while I was there, -like I was totally alone. When I got onto a plane and took off, I was more -relieved than anything else. - -## Amsterdam, The Netherlands - -One of the first things I noticed when I landed in The Netherlands (which is -such a strange name for a country, now that I'm typing it out) is that they have -a sun. It's a stereotype that the UK doesn't get much sun, but it was absolutely -a true one while I was there. There was literally cloud cover the whole time. -That probably had to do with why my mood was down the whole time, unbenownst to -me. - -With my extremely pale ginger self back under the sun, it felt like I'd been -holding my breath for weeks and I was now finally able to breathe again. - -Amsterdam is sometimes called the Venice of the North. Like Bruges. Unlike -Bruges, Amsterdam is gritty and in some places delapidated. The buildings are -sinking into the soft, slightly-under-sea-level Holland soil, and so lean -precariously over the streets. House boats line nearly all canals, many -appearing abandoned. Most canals have a layer of debris and trash floating on -them. - -Some parts of the city are littered with bars and clubs and "coffee shops", -giving them a grunge feel. And others had wildly colored houses and quiet -corners on the canal. And then the museum district, with the amazing Van Gogh -Musuem and the laborynthian Rijksmuseum (those were the two I went in, there's -like five in that little square). And still there's the red light district, with -sex shops and cheesy tourist shit and live shows and, obviously, prostitutes. -They each have a little window where they try to grab your attention from. It's -kinda weird. - -Despite that, Amsterdam was probably my second favorite place I visted on the -whole trip. Like Lisbon, the city feels real. The grunge lets you know people -actually live there. The hostel I stayed in was really cool, and I made a bunch -of friends. One of the nights there I confirmed a long-held suspicion: that I -would hate bar crawls. Now I know for sure. On a different night me and friends -went out, visited a "coffee shop", and hit up the Sex Museum. This turned out to -be a great idea; it wasn't even that raunchy, just kind of mind-boggling. - -Amsterdam also turned out to have the best Belgian fries I've ever had, for -whatever reason, and they ended up being my lunch almost every day. I'd grab my -fry-cone and wander the canals, finding small corners and tucked away cafes to -sit and read at. I wouldn't have thought that a city known for nightlife could -also be home to so many serene little spots; nevertheless, the city is full of -them. - -My bus out of Amsterdam was an 8 hour overnight journey which deposited me in -Copenhagen. Before getting on the bus I killed the last of my "coffee" that was -in my pocket, contorted myself into a ball fitting into the two seats of space I -grabbed, and got the best sleep I've ever gotton on a bus. diff --git a/_posts/2018-09-20-mr-worldwide-pt-0.md b/_posts/2018-09-20-mr-worldwide-pt-0.md deleted file mode 100644 index 882b047..0000000 --- a/_posts/2018-09-20-mr-worldwide-pt-0.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,202 +0,0 @@ ---- -title: >- - Mr. Worldwide, Pt. 0: Bailtrain to Bailtown -description: >- - Wherein I quit my job and prepare to leave the country -series: mr-worldwide ---- - -## Denver - -In mid-2015 I moved to Denver, CO while continuing to work remotely at the -company I had helped to found back in Gainesville, FL. Florida had been my home -for my entire life, up until that point, and it felt like a change was needed. -Denver was certainly a change, and ultimately I think it was one in the right -direction, but it turned out to not be enough. - -{% include image.html dir="mr-worldwide" file="denver-2017.jpg" width=1696 %} - -While in Denver I'd rented a tiny studio apartment, which over the -course of two years I'd learned to live in. Living large is pretty easy; for -some reason we (generally) find it more difficult to throw something away than -to exert the effort to make space for it in our lives. It takes a non-trivial -amount of trial-and-error to figure out a smaller lifestyle with fewer things. -So minimalism is something I started to practice, and continue to practice, in -the literal sense of the word, often failing at it. But I find the challenge to -be worth it. - -I'd always separated my work-place from my living-place, mentally. Eventually I -realized that just because the two places were physically separate doesn't mean -they aren't a part of the same thing. At the most basic level I work in order to -afford basic necessities, like food and clothing and shelter. I have a dedicated -home because it's the most efficient way to keep myself fit and healthy and -clean, because it allows me to having my own ammenities and routines which work -best for me. - -But the more I work, the more I burn out and need to recuperate at home. The -more time spent at home, the more things accumulate there and the more upkeep of -the home is needed, which in turn requires money which requires work. The one -leads to the other, and so they are really part of the same thing. I neither -want to work nor spend a lot of time at home, but that's what my life had turned -into. It was unbearable, and I had to change it. - -## Mr. Worldwide - -In early 2016 I took a trip to Japan with some friends. It was the first time -I'd been out of the US (sans a family trip to Nova Scotia when I was like 9 or -something). Going to Japan might as well have been a trip to an alien planet, -and yet it was also familiar. I learned that no matter how different our -cultures are, the individuals of the world aren't that different at all. By the -end of that trip I felt as at-home in Japan as I did in Denver, if not more so, -because of how much time I was able to spend exploring (rather than being cooped -up working). - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="kyoto-2017.jpg" width=5257 - descr="Kyoto at sunset, 2017" %} - -By the end of 2016 I knew I wanted to travel and see as much as possible, while -working as little as possible in the meantime (except on my own ideas, as they -came up and I felt like working on them). I began trimming down my life, with -the aim of only having as many things as would fit into a backpack. It probably -seemed to everyone like I was preparing to become a homeless person. In a way I -kind of was. - -My plan wasn't that I would never work again, or never live in a home again. -Vagrancy isn't a sustainable way for me to live. But finding a life which didn't -involve spending all my energy working while also not being homeless is surely -possible, I knew, though maybe I wouldn't find it in the US. I began saving as -much money as possible, and began thinking about where I might find that life. - -Europe seemed as good a place to start the search as any. - -## Leaving Denver - -By the end of 2017 I was ready to go. I had saved nearly $20k, had put in notice -that I'd be leaving my job at the end of the year, and had given notice to my -landlord of the same. My friends in Denver saw me off, and my friend Ibrahim -gave me a small notebook to take notes in as I traveled, with some helpful -phrases that might aid me along the way - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="notebook.jpg" width=3036 - descr="Ibrahim made sure I was covered if I ever found myself in a tight spot" - %} - -I drove all my things back to my parents' house in Miami just before Christmas, -and enjoyed Christmas and New Year's with them. In mid-January I grabbed my -single backpack, said goodbye to my parents, and headed to the airport. It had -worked out to be cheaper to fly back to Denver before flying to Europe, so I -spent another day there saying hello/goodbye to everyone again, collecting some -recommendations of places to go while I was there, and continued on to Europe. - -## The Loadout - -(Wherein I give a summary of what I had with me throughout the trip, with -affiliate links sprinkled in, cause money. You can skip this section if you -don't really care). - -I'd already had a [40L backpacking bag](zulu) which had done me well enough on a -couple trips already, so I decided to try and only use that. Other ~~homeless~~ -backpackers tend to go a little bigger, but they risk not being able to fit -their bags in luggage overhead on planes. I also ended up needing a smaller day -bag almost immediately, since being out and about all day necessitates bringing -some things with you. The big bag/day bag combo is a classic amongst ~~the -homeless~~ backpackers. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="loadout-packed.jpg" width=4048 - descr="All packed up, one for overhead and the other for under the seat" - inline=true - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="loadout-unpacked.jpg" width=4048 - descr="(Almost) everything, unpacked" - inline=true - %} - -Most space in the bag is taken by clothes. Which clothes I actually had along -changed as the weather changed and I gained and lost things. But my general -clothing strategy consisted of a few key points: - -* All things need to be re-wearable, 2 to 3 days at least. This is more - difficult for under layers, but wool is ideal as it's durable, warm, and it - quickly-dries (which means the fungi/bacteria, which would otherwise cause - smell, quickly-die). Wool socks were easy to find on sale for $5 a pair at the - end of winter. Wool undershirts (smart wool or merino) are findable on eBay - with some difficulty. [Uniqlo][uniqlo] makes good undershirts to fill in - when wool undershirts are too expensive. [ExOfficio][exofficio] is worth the - money in the underwear department. A pair of leggings is also super worth it - for the cold. - -* For pants I went with three pairs; one beat-up pair, one casual, and one a bit - nicer, and a few wool shirts/sweaters. Later in the trip, as summer rolled - around, I'd pick up some shorts as well. My couple of wool shirts/sweaters - were trivial to find on eBay. - -* For shoes I went with a pair of flip-flops and a pair of [waterproof - boots][timbs] (also from eBay). The boots I chose for being able to be used in - basically any occasion where flip-flops wouldn't do (marathons excepted). - -* I really can't stress enough how great wool is. That said, I would have died - without [this jacket][jacket], which was well worth the relatively tiny amount - of space it took up. Same can be said for my [linen towel][towel], which - struck a perfect balance between packability and being a towel. - -* Other random things which were must-haves: rubber bands (for tying up - clothes), sewing kit, external phone battery, tape, super glue, umbrella, and - a small package of baby wipes. - -* I also insisted on bringing a laughably small and old netbook with me, cause - I get cranky if I can't code now and then. - -Even before deciding on doing this trip I had begun purging all my old clothes -in favor of a much smaller set of more durable, though perhaps more expensive, -ones. So a lot of these clothes carried over from that, and all that I just -described is really my current wardrobe. - -[zulu]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B015SBLO28/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B015SBLO28&linkId=84ffbb4c20cf4dfcee00485312c1d5c3 -[uniqlo]: https://www.uniqlo.com/us/en/men/undershirts -[exofficio]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B001M0MN0C/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B001M0MN0C&linkId=a1a2a1fac9c23c44c0633d0e7170fb98 -[timbs]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B019CVV1AK?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&linkCode=xm2&creativeASIN=B019CVW406&th=1 -[jacket]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B013HAXSLC/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B013HAXSLC&linkId=44efbeb32af7cc0f303180ec70da207e -[towel]: https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B00WBC17N4/ref=as_li_tl?ie=UTF8&tag=mediocregophe-20&camp=1789&creative=9325&linkCode=as2&creativeASIN=B00WBC17N4&linkId=dec48e5d729a51790abad2286f08fe34 - -## (Lack of) Planning - -The trip was deliberately not planned out. I knew I would show up in Munich, -because I have a friend who lives there as well as a distant relative. But -past that I figured "show up and look around" would suffice. My motto for the -trip would eventually become "plans are just lists of things which won't -happen". From start to finish the only plans I had figured out at any moment was -a general trajectory and my next destination. Rarely was my next place to sleep -booked more than a week ahead of time, or my next bus or train ticket bought -more than a day before. - -It could not have worked any other way. For a short trip it might be viable to -have an itinerary with a list of destinations/sights which will be visited and -all the traveling needed in between, but the strictness of an itinerary always -adds tension. Rather than spend some pre-allotted time at each sight, adding a -feeling of being on a timer no matter where you are, I would rather just meander -around and spend as much time as feels right at each place. There's zero chance -of seeing all there is to see, no matter how much is planned, so might as well -see each thing in as much depth and detail as you feel like. - -And looking back, I don't think I _did_ miss all that much. Each city has its -notable sights, and you can know by looking around and talking to other people -which ones are right for you. Start with those, if there's time do the others, -but you won't feel like you've missed anything if you don't get to them. - -Much later in my trip someone would ask me and another backpacker (who'd been -traveling even longer than me) if we had advice for him. The other backpacker -immediately replied "Just keep your head on a swivel". As in, just look around -you, keep your eyes open, you'll see all you want and need to. My grandma gave -me similar advice before I left, when I asked her what I should do in Spain (her -home country): "Oh, you don'thave to do anything. You see something you like, -you go there. You see something else, you go there instead. There is nothing you -have to do". - -## Bailing - -In the next post I will actually leave and begin my _adventure_. diff --git a/_posts/2018-09-29-mr-worldwide-pt-1.md b/_posts/2018-09-29-mr-worldwide-pt-1.md deleted file mode 100644 index 76af16c..0000000 --- a/_posts/2018-09-29-mr-worldwide-pt-1.md +++ /dev/null @@ -1,682 +0,0 @@ ---- -title: >- - Mr. Worldwide, Pt. 1: Europe -description: >- - Or: How I stopped worrying and learned to love tomatoes. -series: mr-worldwide ---- - -# Munich, Germany - -I arrived in Munich late at night on January 14th. My friend Caitlin met me at -the train station, and walked me over to her house to drop my stuff off. Jetlag -hit me real good at this point, so I only barely remember her taking me to a -nearby biergarten to get some food and catch up. The next day we headed down to -the center of the city, and she showed me around the sights, like Marienplatz -and the Frauenkirche (one of many famous churches in Munich). - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="munich-victory-gate-2018.jpg" width=4048 - descr="Siegestor (Victory Gate), Munich, 2018" - %} - -As we walked and ate our way through the day Caitlin updated me on all of the -things that I should expect to be different in Europe, like how water is never -free anywhere, nor are public restrooms; like how many buildings which are still -used and lived in are older than our entire country; like how people use cash -instead of card, and get irritated if you make them break a large bill, or they -just might not do it at all; like how even in a large city like Munich -everything can still be closed on a Sunday. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="munich-moosach-2018.jpg" width=3036 - descr="Moosach neighborhood, Munich, 2018" - float="right" - %} - -The thing which struck me most about Munich was how quiet it was. The din of -traffic is so ingrained into me that I don't even hear it until it's not there. -And to not hear it inside of a city was very strange. More than sound, there was -a quietness of life. It didn't feel like people were rushed, with too much to do -and too little time. People crowded onto the subway, but not with impatience, -and people walked home from the train station after work without hurry. It was -like the priorities of the whole culture were different in some fundamental way -that I could never quite put a finger on. - -Caitlin worked during the week, and so I was set free into the City for a few -days. I visited more churches, ate more food, hung out at the library figuring -out the next steps of my travels, and just generally wandered around the city. - -One snowy day I had lunch with a distant relative on my mom's side, who is an -artist in Munich. I met her at her studio, and from there we wandered around -various museums, where she gave me a private guided tour of the exhibits. We -talked about politics, and about how immigration is affecting it, and about -Trump (of course), and about art, and school, and our different cultures. She -told me that Europe had always looked to the U.S. as a kind of older brother, -but now that image was starting to fall apart, and I told her about the tiny -house and minimalism movement that is hopefully picking up steam in the U.S., -and about my friend who is living in a van and traveling around the country. I -learned a lot that day, and when I headed back to Caitlin's afterwards I felt -much more at home in the country and continent than I had before. - -A week after arriving it was time for me to continue on. One cold morning I -hopped onto a bus, rode through a snowy Switzerland, and hopped off into a -bright and sunny Milan. - -## Milan, Italy - -My first impression of Milan was: "Wow, this place is sketchy". The streets were -dirty, old, and covered in graffiti. There were homeless people everywhere, -people selling bootleg clothes in the street, scammers targeting tourists, and a -general disheveldness which Munich didn't have. But on the other side of that -coin, Milan is one of the fashion capitals of the world, and everywhere I looked -there were also beautiful people in expensive looking clothes, driving fancy -cars, and eating at fancy cafes. Where Munich was simple and wealthy, Milan was -lavish and disparate. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="milan-street-2018.jpg" width=4048 - descr="The streets of Milan, 2018" - %} - -My hostel in Milan was called the Ostello Bello, and was probably the best one I -could have gotten as my first hostel in Europe. The hostel's downstairs area was -a restaurant/bar, with some tables reserved for hostel guests. Upon arriving -they immediately sat me down at one of those tables, where others were sitting, -and said "this is Brian, talk to him". They did this with every person who -arrived, as well as giving us free food and drinks, so that every night turned -into a small party. - -It took a while for me to fully break out of my shell and get used to meeting -people in hostels, but if it weren't for Ostello Bello it might not have -happened at all. Every night I got to hang out and make friends with people from -South Korea, Scotland, Argentina, France, Switzerland, and locals from Milan -too. So despite all the negative things I'm going to have to say about party -hostels later, I'm grateful for Ostello Bello. - -As far as Milan itself, the thing which impacted me the most was the Duomo. And -boy did it impact me, so much so that I visited it twice. It's the third largest -church in the world, but my experience of it was even better than when I would -go to St. Peter's, the first largest, later on. The interior is so cavernous -that all sounds echo virtually forever, creating a low hum which reminded me of -the Hindu Om. To think that the words of a book carried such force that, 2000 -years later, people were erecting and maintaining incredible structures like the -Milan's Duomo in their honor floored me. There's a lot of criticism which could -and should be leveled towards the Catholic Church, but damnit they know how to -build a building. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="milan-duomo-2018-0.jpg" width=1292 - descr="Milan's Duomo. In the lower left, tourists being scammed by a dude with pigeon food, 2018" - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="milan-duomo-interior-2018-0.jpg" width=4048 - descr="Interior of Milan's Duomo, 2018" - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="milan-duomo-interior-2018-1.jpg" width=727 - descr="Milan Duomo's creepy ass statue of Saint Bartholomew, 2018" - float="right" - %} - -Besides the Duomo I also visited some museums and other sights, like the Sforza -Castle, walking from one to the other as the days went on. Walking became a -frequent past-time for me during my traveling. Between Google Maps and the -external battery pack I always had with me, there was never a worry about -getting lost, and with hostels generally being clustered near the sights it was -rarely more than a half-hour walk to any given thing I wanted to see. So I got -used to walking a lot, and taking public transit infrequently, and never once -used a taxi or rental car while in Europe. - -Five days after arriving in Milan I left it, having made many friends and -having learned a lot about Italy and Italians. I also learned I was spending too -long at each city: It was almost 2 weeks into my 3 month-max trip (for visa -reasons), and I'd only been to two cities! From then on I kept to two or three -days per city, depending on how much I cared about it, with a couple of five -day-ers when I really needed a rest. - -## Ravenna, Italy - -After the hecticness of Milan I needed something more quiet. Before leaving the -U.S. a friend had told me about Ravenna, the once capital of the Western Roman -Empire and now small Italian city, where some of the world's oldest Christian -structures still reside. Mosaics retain their original quality over time far -better than many other mediums, and Ravenna was full of ones from as early as -the 6th century. While not as glamorous and fast-paced as Milan, Ravenna really -hit me with the depth of its history. As someone from the U.S., I'm not -accustomed to seeing anything built before 1500, and yet here were buildings in -excellent condition which were built a thousand years prior. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="ravenna-mosaic-2018-0.jpg" width=4048 - descr="Mausoleum of Galla Placidia, Ravenna, 2018" - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="ravenna-mosaic-2018-1.jpg" width=727 - descr="Basilica of San Vitale, Ravenna, 2018" - float="right" - %} - -Something else which took some time to get accustomed to was using cash (what a -segway!). By this point in the trip it had become somewhat second-nature, but -only by way of many mishaps previously. In the U.S. using cash is usually a -backup option, with credit/debit cards ruling supreme. ATMs never give out bills -bigger than $20, and no establishment would ever complain about having to break -a $20 except for maybe the smallest purchases. In Europe the ATMs (or cash -machines, whatever) almost always give out €50 bills, which absolutely no one -wants to break except big chain stores. It's a giant pain. I still remember the -exact location of an ATM in Munich which gave me €10 bills, it was that exciting -of a find, and I went out of my way to go back to it more than once. - -So in addition to needing to keep an eye on your cash and get more out -periodically, you also need to keep an eye out for places which will break your -bills, and plan accordingly. Before leaving the U.S. I had gotten a debit card -with free international ATM withdrawls at any ATM, so finding places to get cash -out wasn't a problem, but breaking it always was. - -But by the time I got back home, I missed doing everything in cash, and even -kept doing it for a while in spite of my culture. While having to find places to -break fifties was a pain, a little friction to making random purchases wasn't -necessarily a bad thing. Instead of impulsively buying whatever was in front of -me, I was incentivized to wait until a better opportunity arrose, generally by -waiting until I could buy multiple things at the same time, which generally -meant buying more efficiently because I was putting thought into it. Also, by -always paying in cash, I had a better sense of how much I was actually spending -day-to-day. In the U.S. we abhor inconvenience, but in my opinion our reluctance -to use cash is a good example of how that abhorance can be to our own detriment. - -## Florence, Italy - -The train from Ravenna to Florence (or, as Italians spell it, _Firenze_) was -uneventful. Finding the best route between cities turned out to be pretty -straightforward. There's an app called GoEuro which helps compare different -methods like bus, train, plane, and taxi/ride-sharing. There's another app -called Rome2Trio which does roughly the same thing. And there's a bus company -called FlexBus which I used quite a bit; their prices are good, their buses are -new, and the UI of their site was made in the last decade. - -Florence was by far my favorite city in Italy. On the one hand it was very -trourist-friendly, and on the other it still retained the feeling of being a -historic city. I split my time there between visiting museums and churches and -finding the best/cheapest spots to eat. Before leaving home, a friend had told -me to avoid any restaurants with pictures on their menu; they're targeted at -tourists and priced accordingly. So my strategy for finding food involved -marking off hole-in-the-wall spots in my maps app whenever I came across them -during the day, and returning later when I was hungry - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="florence-2018-0.jpg" width=4048 - descr="Florence's Duomo near sunset, 2018" - %} - -On my second day in Florence I was sitting by the Uffizi, eating a panini, and I -randomly met an art history student from Madrid who was also visiting Florence. -Together we went to a bunch of museums, saw the David, and just generally hung -out. I asked her a lot of questions at the museums, because, to be honest, I'd -never understood what to make of art in museums. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="florence-2018-1.jpg" width=2688 - descr="River Arno, and the houses which still stand on it, Florence, 2018" - %} - -I'd already learned that, even if I could see a picture of something online, -seeing it in person is way different. In person the colors in a painting pop out -more (many even have gold leef paint which doesn't really show up in pictures at -all, but makes a world of difference), there's a lot more detail to be seen, and -the size of some is absolutely baffling. I also enjoy learning about history, -and the history of art is effectively the history of the world. So museums had -become a meditative place for me; I could go to one and just wander, taking in -art pieces at whatever rate I liked, learning and thinking about history as I -went. - -<div style="text-align: center;"> -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="florence-painting-2018-0.jpg" width=2688 - inline=true - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="florence-painting-2018-1.jpg" width=2688 - inline=true - %} -<p><em>Not pictured, the crowd of selfie-ers behind my trying to get a shot with -The Birth of Venus, Florence, 2018</em></p> -</div> - -What had always confused me, though, was how to _judge_ art. As in, what makes -one piece better than another, or what makes one artist better than another? Why -do some paintings become famous and others remain obscure? What my friend from -Madrid told me is that there's not really a metric. Some paintings become famous -for historical reasons, either due to where they were originally displayed or -some story associated with them. Same for some artists. Ultimately it's up to -the individual to judge them. There was a painting in the same room as the -famous Birth of Venus painting which I liked far more, and was happy to admire -it alone as throngs of other tourists vied for good selfies with the more famous -piece. - -I left Florence with a greater appreciation and understanding of museums, as -well as a good friend who I would be able to visit later while making my way -through Spain. - -## Rome, Italy - -Rome surprised me when I got there, though, to be honest, it's not clear what my -expectations actually were. The city center, aka the tourist center, is -absolutely _massive_, and all of it is completely tourist-centric. Living in -Rome must feel like living inside of Disney World. The city no longer exists for -its residents, but instead has been completely swallowed by the tourism -industry. Every street corner and storefront is filled with souvenir shops, -overpriced food, clothing stores with "I <3 Rome" shirts, gelato shops, walking -tour agencies, bike rentals, "experience" vendors (helicopter rides over the -Colosseum! Oh my!), shitty jewelry stores, and so much more, all aimed at -someone who has too much money and not enough time to spend it all. - -My hostel was one of the cheapest I could find, but I was only staying two full -days so it was fine. Seeing all of the sights of Rome in only two days is not -recommended. The first day I went straight to the Vatican, getting there as -early as possible to try (unsuccessfully) to beat the line. St. Peters is the -largest church in the world, but being rushed I wasn't able to enjoy it like -Milan's Duomo, and a lot of it was closed off unless you wanted to pay more. I -wasn't able to spend enough time in it to enjoy it. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-3.jpg" width=4048 - descr="Pope for the day, Rome, 2018" - %} - -The Vatican museum was more enjoyable than I thought it would be. For starters -it's huge, with tons and tons of things to see, including the Sistene Chapel. I -took my time wandering around. After the museum I left the Vatican and wandered -over to some other sights, like the Castel Sant'Angelo and the Pantheon. As the -day wore on, and more and more tourists started pouring out, everything became -impossibly crowded. It was difficult to really enjoy anything, what with -everyone taking their phones out to capture anything and everything the -guidebook said to, without really taking the time to take in the thing itself. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-2.jpg" width=4048 - descr="Did you know that Rome has more Egyptian obelisks than any other city in the world? That's a rock fact. Rome, 2018" - %} - -This was something I began to struggle with while I was in Rome. It wasn't -always clear to me _why_ these people cared about these sights, with myself -being included. My pessimistic self would say that people just want the social -media points gained by a nice selfie in front of Trevi Fountain, and that the -tourism explosion which has started in the last decade is driven by that -narcissism. My more charitable self might say that everyone understands that the -journey matters more than the destination, and that seeing the sights isn't -really the point, but rather prefer the adventure taken with friends and/or -family, and so they snap a quick picture and continue on with their good time. - -The reason people travel and visit tourist spots is really only their business, -and I can't be one to judge. It just seems unfortunate to take an entire city, -arguably the most important city in written history, and turn it into a theme -park for the sake of people who don't actually care all too much about it. I -carried this realization with me for the rest of my trip, that tourism is a -deal-with-the-devil; it takes the money of people who, ostensibly, find some -place interesting, in exchange for driving away the original inhabitants of that -place who made it interesting in the first place. - -Later on I would learn that the creep of tourism and the dreaded plague of -"gentrification" were spoken of as the same thing in popular destinations. The -problem of wealthy people driving out the inhabitants of a city in order to take -part in the city culture, which the original inhabitants created, is a global -one, and one I'm certainly a part of. I moved to Denver because I liked the -culture of that city, and was fortunate enough to be able to afford to do so, -but then left only three years later, and was now doing the same in even shorter -time periods in cities the world over. - -I obviously didn't stop being a tourist after Rome, but I made a conscious -attempt to be a better one. I put down the guidebook (or, in my case, the guide -app) and tried to explore more naturally, taking in each sight as I found it, -and learning as much about it as I could. Rather than trying to see a little of -everything, I would find something which really called out to me and focus on -that. It's a tough predicament to be in; it's important to go out and see the -world, to meet people from all different cultures and see all the ways they -live, but doing so is, often, detrimental to those cultures. It was tough to -find a balance I was comfortable with, and I'm still not sure a "correct" -balance actually exists. - -<div style="text-align: center;"> -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-0.jpg" width=4048 - inline=true - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="rome-2018-1.jpg" width=1920 - inline=true - %} -<p><em>All that said, the Colosseum was pretty baller. Rome, 2018</em></p> -</div> - -My second day in Rome I spent at the Colosseum and the Palatino, but I was so -utterly exhausted and brain-melted I barely remember them. I left Rome -with a ton of things left unseen, but without any regret about it. Italy itself -had far too much for me to do in this trip, and I knew I'd be back one day, both -to Italy and to Rome itself. On the third day I hopped on a plane, flew across -the sea, and landed in Spain. - -## Barcelona, Spain - -Barcelona definitely made my list of favorite places I visited. Having come from -a city which didn't feel like much more than a playground for tourists, it was -refreshing to be in one which felt more real. Spaniards seemed to be friendlier -than Italians as well, and my hostel was filled with characters from the UK to -Brazil to Russia. - -There was an architect in Barcelona named Antoni GaudÃ, who died in 1926, but -left an indelible impression on the city. If I hadn't known when he lived and -died I might have thought he founded the place, he's that ubiquitous. His style -is completely strange; his exteriors look like something out of Candy Land, -while the interiors seem to come from a utopian sci-fi. - -What blows my mind is that, for whatever reason, they let him build a church. - -La Sagrada Familia isn't actually completed yet. Gaudà took it over in 1883, a -year after it had been started, and worked on it until the day he died. He knew -he wouldn't live to see the completion of the project, and so laid out the plans -such that it could be completed without him. The church has been slowly -constructed using private funds and donations since then. - -<div style="text-align: center;"> -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="sagrada-familia-outside-2018-0.jpg" width=1080 - inline=true - %} - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="sagrada-familia-outside-2018-1.jpg" width=1080 - inline=true - %} -<p><em>Outside faces of La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, 2018</em></p> -</div> - -The outside presents two faces, one a mishmash of sculpture which resembles -melting ice-cream, and the other highly geometrical, both filled with biblical -scenes and small details. Neither really prepares you for what the inside will -be like. - -<div style="text-align: center;"> -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="sagrada-familia-inside-2018-0.jpg" width=1080 - inline=true - %} -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="sagrada-familia-inside-2018-1.jpg" width=1080 - inline=true - %} -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="sagrada-familia-inside-2018-2.jpg" width=1080 - inline=true - %} -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="sagrada-familia-inside-2018-3.jpg" width=1080 - inline=true - %} -<p><em>The incredible interior of La Sagrada Familia, Barcelona, 2018</em></p> -</div> - -I'd been in a lot of churches and cathedrals up till this point. Even when they -were as mind blowing as Milan's Duomo, they all followed a similar pattern: -gothic, brooding, ornate, almost dark in a way. - -La Sagrada Familia is none of those things. It shirks the gothic style almost -completely, instead adopting one inspired by natural shapes and patterns. It -feels more like being under a canopy of trees than being in a building. There's -light, and color, and organic shapes, like the tree-trunk-like columns and the -flower ceiling. And yet there's also a geometric pattern-ness to everything, -which hints at an order and intent for everything in sight, so your eye is drawn -in to investigate every detail without needing ornamentation to grab it. - -It's lucky that I hadn't made any other plans for that day, because I spent -nearly two hours at that church, walking around, taking it all in, sitting -and contemplating, holding back tears a lot of the time, not being successful at -it the rest. This might have been the first building I'd ever felt gratitude -for. Where the traditional catholic building has, as a foundation, a call to -authority, this one had a call to nature and humanity. And rather than being the -crackpot dream of a single person, it had been carried on and supported and -built by many others long after he had died. It was a reflection of an ongoing -change in a society which I was grateful to see. - -I left Barcelona with a new understanding of churches, and what they might -represent, even for someone who's not catholic. They're a space that's been set -aside with the fundamental purpose of sitting quietly and thinking about things -larger than oneself. Thinking about one's place in society, or in nature, or in -the universe, and thinking about how that affects one's actions. Every society -on earth has these spaces, though they go by different names, and have lots of -different decorations. Each one of these spaces carries a message about what -that society has ascribed importance to, and the message La Sagrada Familia -carried with it was refreshing. - -## Madrid, Spain - -Originally I hadn't planned on going to Madrid at all, but in Florence I met -someone who lived there and so decided to spend a couple nights hanging out. -Going on a tour of a city is one thing, but going with a local is something -completely different. We saw some of the things a tourist is supposed to see, -like the opera house, the palace, and whatever this building is: - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="madrid-2018.jpg" width=3036 - descr="This Schweppes building is called the Edificio Carrión, and is famous for reasons. Madrid, 2018" - %} - -But more than that, I got to see what it was like to actually live in a city -like Madrid, as a normal person. A fancy tapas restaurant is too expensive -there, so we went to a local bar that did it more simply and cheaply. We also -ate kebab, which is the European equivalent of the corner mexican or chinese -joint in the states; a place with cheap, good food, open late, run by -immigrants. - -Mostly, we walked around and talked. We talked about colonialism, and oppression -and guilt, and about the Spanish Civil War and fascism, and about Catalan and -its desire for independence, about capitalism, and the pain it causes, and about -tourism and gentrification, and about royalty and aristocracy, and about -language and culture. Like in Munich, I learned a lot, and felt a lot closer to -Spain than I had when I arrived. - -I only spent one full day in Madrid, and afterwards took a bus, continuing -south, down to Córdoba. - -## Córdoba, Spain - -It was on the bus to Córdoba that I remembered to actually book a place to stay -there. I quickly grabbed an AirBnB in town, though, as it turned out, messed it -up and it didn't get reserved. So there was an hour there, waiting at the -Córdoba bus station, where I was trully homeless. I spent it booking another -AirBnB, properly this time, and eating some bread and cheese from my backpack, -and watching some birds fight over a loaf someone else had dropped. - -This was the first AirBnB I'd gotten in Europe so far, up till this it had been -only hostels (and one hotel, in Ravenna). While I'd enjoyed hostel life -initially, especially my first taste of it in Milan, it had begun to wear on me. - -What I'd found is that, first and foremost, hostels were trying to hit a certain -feel. _Good vibes_ were words which I saw in many a hostel description and -review, though didn't often actually experience. It's in the public -consciousness that backpacking through Europe, going from hostel to hostel, is a -journey filled with new experiences, new people, and lots of partying. And while -that is _true_, a lot of hostels ignore hospitality in favor of playing up to -that fantasy, to their own detriment. - -A hostel's primary goal, like a normal hotel or AirBnB or whatever, shouldn't be -to provide you with experiences, or help you meet new people, or enable your -drinking and partying. These are certainly secondary goals it might have, if it -wants. But the primary goal should be to make you feel comfortable and at home. -And while the conceit of a hostel is that you are exchanging some physical -comfort for cost, by having shared bunk rooms and common bathrooms and all that, -comfort can be established through more than a fluffy bed. Some hostels I stayed -at got this, most didn't. - -If someone feels comfortable in a hostel they'll open up on their own, and -naturally want to meet the people around them, go out partying, and have cool -experiences. Or not. They'll do whatever the fuck they want to. But if a hostel -is too focused on being cool and hip and showing off how good its vibes are, -it's neglecting the basics, and then there's no partying, and the vibes aren't -good. - -So I was tired of party hostels, as I began calling them, having just been in -one in Barcelona a few days prior, and instead spent the night in what turned -out to be a brutally cold old building which had neither heat, sealed windows, -or cooking device with which to make a hot meal. Which is what I get for being -a snob, I guess. - -In the morning I visted the Mosque/Cathedral of Córdoba. This site has had the -odd history of having originally been a church, having then been converted to a -mosque when the Moors took Spain in the 700s, and then converted back to a -christian church in the 1200s when the catholics took Spain back, and has since -been designated a cathedral. It retains much of the Moorish architecture, but -with a church in the middle, and is an utterly fascinating place which I -neglected to take any pictures of. - -## Granada, Spain - -This was probably one of the most interesting places I visited while traveling. -Granada was once one of the most important Moorish cities in Spain, then briefly -became a Jewish state, and then the seat of the Nasrid dynasty (the last Muslim -dynasty in Spain), and then eventually went back to being a part of the Catholic -empire. During this time it also had a large influx of Romani, and out of this -mishmash of culture it became one of the birthplaces of flamenco. - -My bus got in at night, but I was lucky enough to catch the last public bus from -the bus station towards my hostel. It dropped me off in the AlbaicÃn, an old -Muslim quarter in the city, where the houses retain the old architectural style -and the streets are narrow and winding. From there I walked uphill a ways to -the Sacromonte neighborhood, the traditional home of the Romani in Granada. Here -the people had dug out caves in the side of the mountain, and made them into -homes. My hostel was in one of these caves. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="granada-2018-0.jpg" width=1329 - descr="The view from my hostel, Alhambra on the left. Granada, 2018" - %} - -The hostel was small and quiet, overlooking both the Alhambra (the castle on a -hill, built by the Nasrids) and the rest of the city. The guys running it -were chill; the owner was Dutch, and the other was Scottish. The Scot had come -to Granada to live and study flamenco, and it was obvious from how he spoke -about it that he was completely in love with the art and the people. On one -night they took me out to a "real gypsy bar", as they called it. - -The flamenco artists in town, the singers and guitarists and dancers, make a -living performing for tourists, but this bar is, according to my guides, where -they go after the shows to hang out. There was no music in the bar, but, as the -night went on, three or four cliques formed up naturally, each around a guitar -player and singer, with dancers circling around, the rest clapping to an -indecipherable rhythm. The Scot knew the names of a few of the people playing, -and told me that it was at gatherings like this that the musicians tried out new -things and pushed the art further. It was the "real" flamenco. - -After that we got kebab and went back to the cave. - -Sacromonte is situated on the face of a valley, with the Alhambra being on the -opposite side. So to get to the Alhambra I had to venture down to the valley -floor, where Granada proper is, and found a very familiar tourist district -filled with all the crap I'd seen in every other city. The Alhambra itself was -interesting, but also packed, and I hadn't realized they only sell a limited -number of tickets per day to get inside the castle, so I missed a lot of it. So -I went back to the peace and quiet of Sacromonte. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="granada-2018-1.jpg" width=1329 - descr="Sacromonte and the valley below. Granada, 2018" - %} - -Being uphill and difficult to access by car, the Sacromonte was, in many ways, -warded off from the wave of tourism which has swept the world and sucked the -heart out of its cities. Only those willing to carry their bags 20 minutes -uphill could disturb it. I found the absolute best spot possible, with benches -overlooking the Alhambra and the city and the sunset, sitting and drawing for -hours, and was only disturbed by one or two couples sharing the view in all that -time. - -I had originally planned to head back to Munich after Granada, but after talking -with a lot of people who told me I _had_ to go to Portugal, I booked a bus to -Lisbon at the last minute and set off. And damn I'm glad I did. - -## Lisbon, Portugal - -Sometimes called the San Fransisco of Europe, Lisbon is a city with beaches, -historical buildings, perfect weather all-year round, earthquakes, and a large -orange-red suspension bridge across a bay. Unlike San Fransisco, it's an -affordable place to visit and the people who live there haven't been priced out -by tech companies ([yet][google-lisbon]). - -Part of why I liked Lisbon so much is that, while tourism is an absolutely huge -industry, it didn't really feel that way. The Baixa district, where my hostel -was, was certainly an area just for tourists. But it wasn't very big, and once -outside of it you find yourself in somewhere like Alfama, which has been a -blue-collar district since the Moorish invasion, and retains its winding -cobblestone streets and narrow alleys. If you look at the skyline of Lisbon you -won't find any highrises or office buildings, just 4 to 5 story apartment -buildings and churches. It's a city meant for people to live, first and -foremost, with business being secondary. And so, despite being the biggest city -in the country, and 9th most visited city in Southern Europe, it still feels -quiet and cozy. - -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="lisbon-2018.jpg" width=1772 - descr="The facade of a museum I was too poor to go in. Lisbon, 2018" - %} - -Another part of what made Lisbon stand out to me was the hostel I stayed in, and -the people I met there. The hostel was _homey_. There was a small dining area -with a single long table, a small living room with couches and chairs -arranges in a circle, a decked out kitchen that anyone could use, and free -sangria every evening. Rather than focus on partying and yolo and whatever, the -owners focused on making it a home, where people would cook and eat and talk and -hang out together. So that's what we did, every night, and in the mornings we'd -meet up one more time to eat unlimited free pancakes from the kitchen. It was an -amazing time. - -While I was there, a museum had an exhibit devoted to M.C. Escher, the Dutch -artist known for his tesselations, fractals, and generally paradoxical work. -Escher had always been an artist I was aware of, and a year prior to this I had -read the book _Gödel, Escher, Bach_ by Douglas Hofstadter and become even more -interested. So I couldn't pass up the chance to see his work in person. And boy, -did it leave an impression on me. - -Having traveled to Córdoba and Granada in his early twenties, Escher was -impressed by the Moorish architecture, specifically the tesselating tile -patterns they used in decoration. He began trying to replicate their work, and -ended up following what amounted to a mathematical investigation of geometry, in -the context of art. The museum presented his work in largely chronological -order, and, in seeing the progression of his ideas over decades, it really -struck me both what a genius he was and how dedicated he must have been to have -spun his wheels on the same problems for most of his life. - -<div style="text-align: center;"> -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="lisbon-escher-2018-0.jpg" width=513 - inline=true - %} -{% include image.html - dir="mr-worldwide" file="lisbon-escher-2018-1.jpg" width=341 - inline=true - %} -<p><em>Tesselations, paradoxes, and tricks of perspective, Lisbon, 2018</em></p> -</div> - -For the rest of my trip, even through Asia, I would spend my time doodling -tesselations of my own, trying to find the tricks that Escher found which let -him make such complex images. I would find some, but certainly Escher still has -the leg up on me. - -Having traveled most of Southwest Europe at this point I flew back to homebase, -Munich, to recuperate and figure out what my next steps would be. I left Lisbon -promising myself that I'd be back, even considering finding a way to live there -one day. While my life plans have since changed, it's not something I've totally -ruled out. - -[google-lisbon]: https://econews.pt/2018/01/29/from-google-to-amazon-technological-companies-are-moving-to-portugal-why/ - -## To be continued - -In my next post of this series I'll tell the story of the second, and longest, -leg of my European tour, where I go to Belgium, the UK, Scandinavia, Prague, and -Berlin! diff --git a/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/bruges-canal-2018.jpg b/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/bruges-canal-2018.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index df3f373..0000000 --- a/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/bruges-canal-2018.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/bruges-pano-2018.jpg b/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/bruges-pano-2018.jpg Binary files differdeleted file mode 100644 index a31fbe9..0000000 --- a/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/bruges-pano-2018.jpg +++ /dev/null diff --git a/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/denver-2017.jpg b/img/mr-worldwide/1000px/denver-2017.jpg Binary files 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